Showing posts with label National Trust. Show all posts
Showing posts with label National Trust. Show all posts

Saturday, 28 October 2017

Death in the garden: prisoner graffiti from a forgotten war.

In the 1980s a strange and unnerving painting came to light in Ontario, Canada. The painting was executed in a naive eighteenth century style and appeared to show a birds-eye view of a large red-brick Elizabethan style mansion. In itself the image of the building had a certain charm. However, a closer examination of the details shown in the painting soon raise a certain uneasiness in the viewer. The building, it soon becomes apparent, is actually being used as a prison, with red-coated guards stationed all around the perimeter. Inside the many courtyards and barren gardens can be seen the prisoners themselves - stick-thin figures in shabby dress. More unnerving still are the events shown as taking place in the top left hand corner of the painting. Here a redcoat has his musket levelled, in the act of firing. A figure inside the compound lies prone upon the ground, whilst another, clearly injured, is being helped up by his comrades. To the right a tiny figure flees, whilst another red-coated guard is shown attacking a prisoner with a bayonet.

The picture, it appears, is telling a story - a tragedy. However, when it was first discovered nobody was able to identify where the painting was meant to depict, or what were the events to which it referred. It wasn't until 2008 that the then owner of the painting began circulating copies of the image amongst academic and scholars - leading to the discovery by architectural historian Nicholas Cooper that the place shown in the painting was none other than Sissinghurst Castle in Kent.
Sissinghurst the prison (Bonhams)

The great Elizabethan house that appears in the painting is now long gone, which is probably why it took so many years to identify the subject matter. The house in the picture was built by the Baker family in the 1570s but, following their support for the Royalist cause in the English Civil War, the family's finances fell into almost terminal decline. The house and estate were heavily mortgaged, and passed through numerous hands, until eventually being almost completely demolished in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century. The once palatial residence, which even played host to queen Elizabeth the first and her court during her progress in August 1573, became nothing more than a damp wreck. When Horace Walpole visited the site in 1741 he described it as a 'park in ruins and a house in ten times greater ruins'. A century later even the ruins had all but gone, only a few buildings remained, the rest dug out even to the level of their foundations.

What remained of the house was eventually bought by the author and member of the famed Bloomsbury set Vita Sackville-West and her husband Harold Nicolson in the 1930s. Little remained of the once great Elizabethan house shown in the painting, and the 'castle' consisted of nothing more than the original entrance range, the red brick tower, and a scattering of outbuildings and cottages, all overgrown with wild and tangled scrub and greenery. Vita and Harold set about restoring the property, a task that took almost a decade to compete, turning it into a family home where they would spend the rest of their lives. Vita made her study in the Elizabethan tower, where she eventually penned many of her acclaimed poems and novels, and from where she could oversee the laying out the now famous gardens. Today Sissinghurst Castle is owned by the National Trust and is known worldwide for the stunning gardens created by Vita and Harold. It has become a place of horticultural pilgrimage, where thousands now walk the yew lined paths each year to admire the plants and design. It has also become a shrine to the memory of Vita, with her study preserved in every detail as she left it.

It is as though the clock of history has stopped for Sissinghurst, where it is always, and will always be, a Summer's day in the late 1930s. Where the smell of National Trust coffee and rosemary drift across the lawns and roses that are forever tied to the memory of Vita. Where thousands flock to worship the gardens, and peer through a locked door at an old and battered typewriter. Each hushed footstep on the crushed gravel paths reinforcing a mellow red-bricked mirage. And yet, there in the long library that Vita and Harold built, now sits the painting. A fingerpost to a different Sissinghurst. An accusing testament to an overlooked and far darker past. A Sissinghurst of pain, humiliation, bloodshed and despair - with a barren garden grubbed up by the roots, and the blood of a murdered man soaking into the dark soil.

***
In 1756 the British once again found themselves at war with France. Known today as the 'Seven Years War', the conflict spread around the globe, taken to the furthest corners of the globe by massed fleets of the European powers. Unfortunately for the French the British navy was on the brink of becoming the single dominant superpower of the world's oceans. Despite being a generation before the great victories of Admiral Nelson, the early years of the conflict saw a string of decisive British victories against the French fleet. Following the French navy's disastrous actions at the Battle of Cartagena in 1758, and Battle of Lagos and Battle of Quiberon Bay in 1759, the Royal Navy dominated European waters, confining most larger French vessels to their home ports by means of a constant blockade. The subsequent sea conflict became one largely of commerce raiding, with the French commissioning numerous privateers to disrupt English merchant shipping, whilst the Royal Navy blockade ships harassed and captured French coastal cargo vessels and fishing craft.

However, the victories weren't without their problems for the British Admiralty. Whilst the British may have welcomed the number of captured French ships that fell into their hands, they were less pleased with the number of prisoners they now found themselves having to deal with. At the Battle of Lagos alone the Royal Navy took over two thousand French sailors captive, and the subsequent years of commerce raiding soon added dozens of other enemy crews to swell their numbers even further. Prisoners of War were traditionally housed in ancient converted warships, known as 'prison hulks', but the numbers of enemy sailors that had been taken soon made this impractical, and a new solution was sought. The most obvious answer appeared to be the creation of specialist prison camps on land, and a number of ancient walled sites such as Porchester castle were soon converted for use. With an eye to improving their own fortunes, and making the most of the few assets they still had available to them, the descendents of the Baker family arranged to lease Sissinghurst to the Admiralty for use as a prison.

Exactly how many prisoners were held at Sissinghurst at any one time is a matter of some debate, with figures varying between 1700 and 3000 men. Whatever the true figure the conditions inside the prison were extremely overcrowded even by eighteenth century standards. All the main rooms were turned in to barracks, with as many as sixty men crammed into tiny attic spaces. A room that still exists to this day, the size only of a modern double bedroom, was allocated to be occupied by no less than eighteen men. In a bid to keep warm he prisoners despoiled what remained of the Tudor furnishings, stripping panelling from the walls, and even grubbing up the roots of the plants in the garden. Sissinghurst was never to be the same again.

The prisoners were almost all of the lower ranks, with the naval officers who agreed to offer their parole, allowed to live in more comfortable accommodation in places nearby such as Cranbroke or Sevenoaks. The only officers present at Sissinghurst were those who had been sent there for punishment for crimes, real or imagined, or breaking the terms of their parole. One unfortunate who had been living a life of comfortable exile in Sevenoaks was committed to Sissinghurst at the insistence of the local commander, having been found to have been 'intimate' with no less than two local ladies. The French came to call Sissinghurst the 'chateau', giving rise to it still being referred to today as Sissinghurst Castle, and its reputation was fearsome. Conditions were so dreadful, and the treatment of prisoners so harsh, that it became seen as a punishment camp, and the threat of 'being sent to the castle' was not one to be taken lightly.

The poor rations, overcrowding, and insanitary conditions were quick to take their toll on the prison population. Outbreaks of contagious diseases led to the conversion of the great barn into a rudimentary prison hospital, but such measures did little to limit the death toll. Although many records survive that detail the dreadful plight of the men held at Sissinghurst, just how many died in captivity is unknown. The number was most certainly in the hundreds, and it has been suggested that the actual figure was far, far higher.

As if the prison conditions were not enough to contend with the poor sailors also had to put up with the appalling treatment meted out by the British guards. At any one time Sissinghurst was garrisoned by over two hundred soldiers tasked with keeping the prisoners under control. The garrison wasn't drawn from regular army units, but from the far poorer quality county militia units. Men who were often drawn from the very lowest ranks of society. At the very best of times they were considered corrupt and trigger-happy, but some units were notoriously worse than others. The Kent militia were renowned for their cruelty, whilst the Leicestershire militia were generally agreed to be barely under the control of their officers. Accidents, and fatal and tragic events that were certainly less than accidental, were inevitable.

The painting discovered in Ontario and now housed in the library at Sissinghurst records just one such event. On the 9th of July 1761 three escapees were being returned to the prison after failing in their bid for freedom. Hearing of their recapture a crowd of inmates rushed towards the wooden pallisade that surrounded the former garden where they were exercising, something they were officially forbidden to do. A soldier of the Kent militia, John Bramston, was stationed on the other side of the moat and warned the prisoners away from the fence, threatening to fire upon them. Whether the prisoners simply didn't hear him, or whether they were deliberately ignoring his threat, isn't known. The result was the same. Bramston levelled his musket, took aim, and fired at the crowd of raggedly dressed men behind the pallisade. It was later discovered that Bramston had previously loaded his musket with no less than three balls. The first harmlessly flattened itself against a wall. However, the other two found their targets. Sebastien Billet was struck down and died where he lay, his blood soaking into the ground around him as his comrades looked on. Nearby Baslier Baillie was also badly hit, and later agonisingly died of his wound in the prison hospital. In the panic that followed a further prisoner, Claude Hallet, was wounded by being stabbed with a bayonet by another one of the guards.

The subsequent enquiry later discovered that Bramston had a reputation for unstable behaviour with regards to the prisoners, and certainly showed no remorse for his actions. He was reported as having boasted later that same day that 'if he had killed more it would not have given him any uneasiness'. However, as was the case with so many 'accidents' that led to the sudden and untimely deaths of many a French prisoner, no serious action was taken against Bramston. Indeed, the whole event might well have been totally forgotten - a single record of a nondescript military enquiry buried deep within the National Archives - had someone not made a permanent visual record of the events. Someone who undoubtedly saw what went on that day, and wanted to record the horror that was Sissinghurst for all to see. Forever. For everyone.


So where now is the story of the poor half-starved sailors of Sissinghurst? Where amongst the tales of Vita Sackville-West and her astonishing garden is the memorial to the men that shed their blood into that very same soil? Well, if you look closely it can still just be seen - small fragments of a forgotten history - etched deep into the very walls of the place. Although the men have gone, they left behind them their own marks; graffiti of ships and sailors names etched deep into the bricks, stone and plaster of the tower. Dreams of the open sea carved into the walls of the prison that confined them. And spare a thought too for those that never left this place. Those like Sebastien Billet and Baslier Baillie. Those men who never returned to their homeland and the arms of their loved ones. Spare a thought for them as you picnic in the meadow, gazing around at the splendours of Vita's creation, your picnic rug spread only a few feet above where their sad mortal remains lie lost and forgotten.


Wednesday, 1 June 2016

Tea, cake and graffiti - National Volunteer Week

This week is National Volunteer Week - just in case it may have escaped your notice. Just in case you've had your head stuck down a dark hole or something. Just in case you are just emerging from rehab for the seventh time - that sort of thing. National Volunteer Week - seven days in which to sing the praises of volunteers from all walks of life, undertaking voluntary roles within all sorts of organisations. Over 21,000,000 people volunteer in the UK each year, contributing an estimated £23.9bn to the economy - so we aren't talking small beer here. To put it into perspective, if all the UK' volunteers were members of a single organisation, it would be the largest organisation in the country. So massive is volunteering in the UK that this year Volunteer's Week actually runs from the 1st to the 12th of June.... although they might want to look at the name... just saying...

A week such as this is particularly relevant to anyone who works within the heritage field at the moment, and even more so within the field of community archaeology. You see, the things is, without the input and help from any number of amazing volunteers, most community archaeology simply wouldn't happen. It couldn't. Without the thousands of hours these amazing people put in to doing something that they love these projects just could not take place. Take the graffiti surveys for example. With over 1150 surviving medieval churches in Norfolk and Suffolk alone - and a couple of cathedrals - any attempt at fully surveying them all with any degree of thoroughness would take an individual many, many years to do. If undertaken by a commercial organisation it would cost tens of millions of pounds - at a time when that sort of money is barely available to even keep the buildings water-tight. The only way in which to carry out surveys on this scale has been with a fantastic band of loyal, and slightly barmy, volunteers.


And what volunteers they have become! Take for example the Norwich cathedral survey volunteers. They began, as I'm sure they won't mind me saying, as a rather disparate bunch. A few had some archaeological or historical experience, but most came to the idea of undertaking a detailed building survey as something entirely new. However, in the last four years they have more than risen to the challenge. They have undertaken measured surveys, and drank tea. They have carried out raking light surveys, and eaten cake. They have tried their hands at doing RTI surveys - and laughed, smiled and joked their way through countless Saturday's. They have led tours of the building, spent hundreds of hours talking to the public about medieval graffiti - and have even been involved with training the cathedral guides. And whilst they were doing all this, whilst they were busy enjoying themselves and educating others, they have become some of the very best graffiti surveyors I have ever come across. I have no reservations in stating that they are now far better than many of their commercial counterparts - and much more fun to be with.



The thing is, much as we value our volunteers, and simply couldn't get along without them, we simply aren't very good at working with them all the time - and it's quite likely that they won't be around too much longer anyway. 

In community archaeology in general it is worth remembering that those people leading the projects - myself included - are first and foremost archaeologists. We aren't volunteer managers, have usually only received the barest training in working with volunteers, and have generally had to make much of it up as we went along. Occasionally we get it wrong - but hopefully learn from the experience. It shouldn't be this way - but it is. However, if we want to continue operating these sorts of projects into the future then that really, really has to change - because volunteering is going to change - and that change is coming very soon...

At the moment there are many, many projects being undertaken in the UK that completely rely upon volunteer input - the medieval graffiti surveys being just a single example. There are also some pretty major heritage organisations, in particular charities like the National Trust and many major museums, whose own business models - essentially their ability to function - is based upon being able to access a large number of volunteers each and every day. Without volunteer input these organisations just couldn't carry on doing what they are doing in the way they are doing it. Only a few weeks ago I was a small part of a much larger team of archaeologists who spent an entire week training National Trust volunteers many different aspects of archaeological fieldwork. During the week the volunteers learnt everything from undertaking a geophysical survey and standing buildings recording, to graffiti surveying and landscape history. By the end of the week the individuals were volunteering for additional archaeological activities - and were already taking an active part in one of the National Trust's largest ever archaeological projects. The problem, of course, is that this level of volunteering quite simply won't be available in the future. There will, unquestionably, be a far reduced number of volunteers available - and they'll be very different volunteers than the ones that so many projects rely upon these days.



The problem is pretty straightforward really - age and economics. As the individuals who currently volunteer get older, but largely remain fit and active (quite possibly in part due to their volunteer activities), they'll want to continue volunteering. And why shouldn't they? They offer a wealth of experience and knowledge that any organisation would be just plain daft to turn down. However, whilst there are only one or two things that volunteers in the 55-70 age group can't currently do, as they get older there will be increasing physical limitations. Certain activities are going to get more difficult or problematic. As a result the volunteer activities they undertake will have to change - and the business models will have to change with them. Now this wouldn't be much of a problem if there were a new generation of volunteers appearing to undertake those tasks once carried out by the older volunteers - but it simply isn't going to happen. The time when people could retire at sixty-five, sixty, or even as young as fifty-five, is soon to be long gone. As life expectancy increases so will the average retirement age, with recent studies suggesting that retirement at seventy could be the new norm by as soon as 2030. What that means is that for those people currently in the forty to fifty-five age group retirement may simply never happen. They'll be too busy working to volunteer for anything.

The end result of this is that many, many organisations - from the National Trust and major museums, all the way down to local community archaeology groups - are going to have to start seriously addressing the issue of future volunteering. In the first instance we are all going to have to make much, much better use of the precious and finite resource that volunteers represent. Large scale volunteer led projects, such as the county graffiti surveys, may have a limited shelf life. If they aren't completed in the next decade or so then it is quite likely that they will never be completed by volunteers at all. For organisations such as the National Trust and many museums the challenges may in fact be far greater - and more long term. They are going to have to fundamentally rethink how they operate. So I suppose the lesson is, in this week where we celebrate all our amazing volunteers, let's make them really understand just how special they really are. We need them more than they need us - and that is going to become increasingly clearer as each year passes...


So - Colin, Pat, Tony, Mark, Jess, Lesley, Paul, Claire, Terry, Ann, Clare, Brian, Hugh, Kathleen, Bev, Sarah, Chris, Simon, Frances, Joy, Louise, Jenny, Robert, David, Mike, Mike, Mike, Mike - and all the other Mike's, Kett's rebels and the wonderful tea-drinkers - thank you for ALL of the hard work, the friendship and the support. NONE of this would have happened without you.



Thursday, 9 April 2015

Guest blog 4: History is my business... and yours. by Nat Cohen

Welcome to the fourth of our guest blogs, written upon the subject 'what does history/heritage mean to you'. This week I am delighted to welcome a contribution from Nathalie Cohen. Nat is a professional archaeologist with, I'm sure she won't mind me saying, far too many jobs. She is the National Trust archaeologist for South-east England, covering sites such as Knole, Bodiam castle and Dover. She is also the cathedral archaeologist for Southwark Cathedral, and a key part of the award winning Thames Discovery Programme, now run by Museum of London Archaeology. Oh, and if all of that wasn't quite enough, she is one of those brave souls who have taken on the running and organisation of the Kent Medieval Graffiti Survey. Frankly, I'm quite surprised she had time to write this at all! But write she did - and it is a fantastic read. Enjoy!

History is my business…and yours

by Nat Cohen

As you can see from my biography, I’m an archaeologist by profession.  And yes, I was that geeky kid who loved reading, especially history books.  I even loved learning about kings and queens and dates of battles; all that stuff.   I was lucky enough to have some great history teachers in primary school, and we covered a lot of ground – everything from ancient Mesopotamia to the invention of the telephone.  Seeing ‘Raiders of the Lost Ark’ at a rather impressionable age was a lightbulb moment for me; I don’t think that before that I’d realised you could have an actual job that involved hunting for treasure, exploring forgotten landscapes, and teaching at university, with fighting against Nazi evil an obvious bonus.   Apart from a (pretty unrealistic) desire to be a ballerina, all I wanted to be when I grew up was an archaeologist.  It certainly put into context my youthful attempts to ‘feel the past’ (translation: getting told off for touching things in museums that I wasn’t meant to) and to ‘access heritage’ (translation:  impotent rage at rope barriers across interesting looking areas and spaces.

If I had to define it further when a confused adult asked why I didn’t want to do something more ‘sensible’ when I left school, I usually said I loved history and wanted to do a job which involved history,  but didn’t want to be stuck indoors in a library looking at paperwork all the time (also true). 

So, eventually, off to university I went to study medieval archaeology, and specifically British medieval archaeology.  However, this is not necessarily ‘my’ heritage – as an American-born Australian of a very mixed cultural background (my only known English ancestor is about five generations back) I have no particular links to England.  For my love of castles, churches and cathedrals you can place the blame squarely at the feet of my Anglophile parents whose idea of a good holiday once we’d moved to England involved visiting at least one historic site a day.  University just encouraged this obsession (as it should) – the opportunity to spend time thinking, looking at, doing and talking about archaeology with like-minded people was something I am very grateful I was able to do.


In spite of the possibility of digging on far flung, much more Indiana Jones style sites, I ended up working in Sussex, Kent, Wiltshire and London. And I loved it. I did some travelling, digging in Eastern Europe and Israel, and loved it some more.   In between times, I worked in a bakery, as a waitress, and as admin staff at the Institute of Archaeology in London.  Then I started to get archaeological jobs – working in the East Midlands, London and back in Kent and Sussex.  After twenty years working on sites, in museums, in universities, on research projects, for archaeological units, for charities and for a cathedral, I still love it. 

All of the above is by way of preamble really, now to address the tricky question Matt has set us bloggers – ‘what does history / heritage mean to me?’  As my title suggests, history is my livelihood; it’s what I do every day and how I put food on the table. Early in my career, and very thankful indeed to have a job, I was interviewed for a newspaper,  and I said that I felt very lucky to be paid to work in archaeology (at the time I was both an archivist and a digger).  During the interview, I was quoted as saying I would work for nothing in archaeology (i.e. volunteer) if I couldn’t get a paid job, and was thoroughly upbraided by a colleague for saying I would be prepared to work for free.  With hindsight I think both our views were correct.  I still feel that I am privileged – working in archaeology is, for all its frustrations and as much as I might complain about the early mornings, the cold and the rain, on the whole and in a word, awesome.  I get to see some wonderful things, visit some beautiful places and I get to hang out with some amazing people as part of my working life.  The number of people I meet who respond with ‘Ah I always wanted to do that’ when I say I’m an archaeologist reinforces my feeling of being the lucky one.  If I wasn’t employed in the ‘heritage sector’ I have no doubt I’d be out volunteering any chance I got.  And yet, I totally agree with the sentiment as voiced by my colleague all those years ago, that the recording and interpretation of our history should not come for free.  We should not be relying on the avocational sector to shoulder the responsibility of this; we as the professionals should be supporting volunteers to better understand and engage with heritage, while learning ourselves from their experience and enthusiasm.

 I fell early, and largely accidentally, into working within community archaeology (before it was even called ‘community archaeology’ I believe!).  While I love to discuss (rant about) the wider issues within our sector – values and significance, protection and legislation, pay and job security – I’ll admit to having very little truck with academic navel gazing around the definitions of engagement, and actually with archaeological theory in general.  Maybe it’s because I’m a ‘get out and get on with it’ kind of person?  I love talking about archaeology with anyone who’d like to talk about it, and I love being on site, with anyone who’d like to come along.  Let’s face it: I’d be there anyway, most likely muttering to myself.  I guess that makes me a walking personification of the recent study by the Heritage Lottery Fund [1] which proclaims that ‘heritage makes you happy’; I strongly believe this as it certainly makes me happy, and I know it makes lots of other people happy too.


As far as ‘engagement’ goes there are so many different levels to people’s experience of the past but in trying to dissect and over-analyse this, we may run the risk of disassociating ourselves from the very people we are trying to reach.  Don’t get me wrong, I’m not suggesting an uncritical approach and a lack of reflection, but maybe we should always try to hold in sight how history makes us FEEL, and listen to others when they tell us the same thing.

So, after all that, what DOES history / heritage mean to me?  It’s my job but it’s somehow more than that too – it’s a passion, and something that can be shared.  I’m very glad I’m able to share my obsession with other people, and also glad it’s my job – I’d make a very clumsy waitress these days.