Showing posts with label Dover. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dover. Show all posts

Thursday, 9 April 2015

Guest blog 4: History is my business... and yours. by Nat Cohen

Welcome to the fourth of our guest blogs, written upon the subject 'what does history/heritage mean to you'. This week I am delighted to welcome a contribution from Nathalie Cohen. Nat is a professional archaeologist with, I'm sure she won't mind me saying, far too many jobs. She is the National Trust archaeologist for South-east England, covering sites such as Knole, Bodiam castle and Dover. She is also the cathedral archaeologist for Southwark Cathedral, and a key part of the award winning Thames Discovery Programme, now run by Museum of London Archaeology. Oh, and if all of that wasn't quite enough, she is one of those brave souls who have taken on the running and organisation of the Kent Medieval Graffiti Survey. Frankly, I'm quite surprised she had time to write this at all! But write she did - and it is a fantastic read. Enjoy!

History is my business…and yours

by Nat Cohen

As you can see from my biography, I’m an archaeologist by profession.  And yes, I was that geeky kid who loved reading, especially history books.  I even loved learning about kings and queens and dates of battles; all that stuff.   I was lucky enough to have some great history teachers in primary school, and we covered a lot of ground – everything from ancient Mesopotamia to the invention of the telephone.  Seeing ‘Raiders of the Lost Ark’ at a rather impressionable age was a lightbulb moment for me; I don’t think that before that I’d realised you could have an actual job that involved hunting for treasure, exploring forgotten landscapes, and teaching at university, with fighting against Nazi evil an obvious bonus.   Apart from a (pretty unrealistic) desire to be a ballerina, all I wanted to be when I grew up was an archaeologist.  It certainly put into context my youthful attempts to ‘feel the past’ (translation: getting told off for touching things in museums that I wasn’t meant to) and to ‘access heritage’ (translation:  impotent rage at rope barriers across interesting looking areas and spaces.

If I had to define it further when a confused adult asked why I didn’t want to do something more ‘sensible’ when I left school, I usually said I loved history and wanted to do a job which involved history,  but didn’t want to be stuck indoors in a library looking at paperwork all the time (also true). 

So, eventually, off to university I went to study medieval archaeology, and specifically British medieval archaeology.  However, this is not necessarily ‘my’ heritage – as an American-born Australian of a very mixed cultural background (my only known English ancestor is about five generations back) I have no particular links to England.  For my love of castles, churches and cathedrals you can place the blame squarely at the feet of my Anglophile parents whose idea of a good holiday once we’d moved to England involved visiting at least one historic site a day.  University just encouraged this obsession (as it should) – the opportunity to spend time thinking, looking at, doing and talking about archaeology with like-minded people was something I am very grateful I was able to do.


In spite of the possibility of digging on far flung, much more Indiana Jones style sites, I ended up working in Sussex, Kent, Wiltshire and London. And I loved it. I did some travelling, digging in Eastern Europe and Israel, and loved it some more.   In between times, I worked in a bakery, as a waitress, and as admin staff at the Institute of Archaeology in London.  Then I started to get archaeological jobs – working in the East Midlands, London and back in Kent and Sussex.  After twenty years working on sites, in museums, in universities, on research projects, for archaeological units, for charities and for a cathedral, I still love it. 

All of the above is by way of preamble really, now to address the tricky question Matt has set us bloggers – ‘what does history / heritage mean to me?’  As my title suggests, history is my livelihood; it’s what I do every day and how I put food on the table. Early in my career, and very thankful indeed to have a job, I was interviewed for a newspaper,  and I said that I felt very lucky to be paid to work in archaeology (at the time I was both an archivist and a digger).  During the interview, I was quoted as saying I would work for nothing in archaeology (i.e. volunteer) if I couldn’t get a paid job, and was thoroughly upbraided by a colleague for saying I would be prepared to work for free.  With hindsight I think both our views were correct.  I still feel that I am privileged – working in archaeology is, for all its frustrations and as much as I might complain about the early mornings, the cold and the rain, on the whole and in a word, awesome.  I get to see some wonderful things, visit some beautiful places and I get to hang out with some amazing people as part of my working life.  The number of people I meet who respond with ‘Ah I always wanted to do that’ when I say I’m an archaeologist reinforces my feeling of being the lucky one.  If I wasn’t employed in the ‘heritage sector’ I have no doubt I’d be out volunteering any chance I got.  And yet, I totally agree with the sentiment as voiced by my colleague all those years ago, that the recording and interpretation of our history should not come for free.  We should not be relying on the avocational sector to shoulder the responsibility of this; we as the professionals should be supporting volunteers to better understand and engage with heritage, while learning ourselves from their experience and enthusiasm.

 I fell early, and largely accidentally, into working within community archaeology (before it was even called ‘community archaeology’ I believe!).  While I love to discuss (rant about) the wider issues within our sector – values and significance, protection and legislation, pay and job security – I’ll admit to having very little truck with academic navel gazing around the definitions of engagement, and actually with archaeological theory in general.  Maybe it’s because I’m a ‘get out and get on with it’ kind of person?  I love talking about archaeology with anyone who’d like to talk about it, and I love being on site, with anyone who’d like to come along.  Let’s face it: I’d be there anyway, most likely muttering to myself.  I guess that makes me a walking personification of the recent study by the Heritage Lottery Fund [1] which proclaims that ‘heritage makes you happy’; I strongly believe this as it certainly makes me happy, and I know it makes lots of other people happy too.


As far as ‘engagement’ goes there are so many different levels to people’s experience of the past but in trying to dissect and over-analyse this, we may run the risk of disassociating ourselves from the very people we are trying to reach.  Don’t get me wrong, I’m not suggesting an uncritical approach and a lack of reflection, but maybe we should always try to hold in sight how history makes us FEEL, and listen to others when they tell us the same thing.

So, after all that, what DOES history / heritage mean to me?  It’s my job but it’s somehow more than that too – it’s a passion, and something that can be shared.  I’m very glad I’m able to share my obsession with other people, and also glad it’s my job – I’d make a very clumsy waitress these days.

Monday, 9 December 2013

Graffiti underground: Fan Bay Deep Shelter, Dover


Last week was an unusual week as far as graffiti hunting goes. Most of my time is spent hunting around medieval churches for early graffiti. Not a problem as far as I’m concerned. A bit chilly at this time of year – but by no means a problem. However, I do also undertake commercial graffiti surveys of other historic sites. These are a wonderful opportunity to look at graffiti inscriptions from a little further afield and to examine graffiti from other time periods. A very useful exercise. It’s taken me to some very strange places over the last year or two. From the uppermost reaches of the attics at Knole Palace in Sevenoaks, to the depths of medieval undercrofts in darkest Sussex. However, even by my standards last week was a bit of an odd one.
As many of you may know, the National Trust have recently purchased another large section of the white cliffs of Dover. The site is iconic, by anyone’s standards, and the appeal and subsequent purchase of the site has now secured it for the nation. However, what very few people know is that the purchase also included a few added extras.


As one of the most heavily defended areas of England throughout history, Dover has a few secrets lying beneath its rolling green hills. Although today most of the white cliffs look to be open grassland, untouched for hundreds of years, this simply isn’t the case. In particular, during the last two world wars, the white cliffs were a maze of gun batteries, ammunition magazines, plotting rooms and underground shelters, and whilst most of the concrete and gun emplacements above ground may have been dismantled many of the underground workings still exist. The land newly acquired by the National Trust also contains one of these WWII sites – the Fan Bay Battery. Although little now remains of the gun battery itself, having been demolished in the years following the war, the Deep Shelter beneath the battery, one of the largest in the area, survives almost completely intact.
The shelter was designed to keep the gun crews safe from enemy action, but it was far more than just an air raid shelter. It is located many metres below the surface, in tunnels cut through the chalk, and originally contained offices, dormitories, a medical bay and access out to the cliff face – where two ‘sound mirrors’ were originally located. As the site had been virtually sealed off for many years the NT asked me to undertake a graffiti survey of the site to record all the WWII graffiti that appeared to be all over the site. How could I say no?



Well the first problem with a site like this is actually getting all the survey gear down there. The entrance is little more than a hole in the ground, in the middle of a blustery and windswept field, secured by a massive steel door. There are then three flights of steps to negotiate, each taking you many metres further underground, until you get into the deep shelter proper. And it is deep. Once down there it all looks pretty easy to begin with (apart from the fact that it reminded me of a bad video game – where zombie Nazis were liable to be lurking around every corner), and the first sections of tunnels are in superb condition. However, as I ventured deeper into the tunnels, led by project coordinator Jon Barker, I realised things weren’t going to be quite so easy. Further away from the entrance the nice steel tunnels gave way to simple tunnels cut into the chalk itself, held up with long since rotten pit props and old railways sleepers. Chalk from the roof lay scattered around and, as we ventured out towards the cliff face, I discovered both major tunnels to come to an abrupt end where the tunnel roof had caved in. A strange feeling indeed. Crawling along of your stomach, trying to get as far down each tunnel as possible to find a graffiti inscription left on the walls only 70 odd years earlier.


The survey took two days to complete. Two rather exhausting days lugging lights and tripods over chalk falls, keeping a wary eye out for trolls and zombie Nazis all the while (maybe it was their week off?), and actually produced far more in the way of interesting graffiti than any of us had first anticipated. In particular the distribution patterns were intriguing. Certain areas contained far more early graffiti than others, suggesting different uses and levels of access to various areas of the tunnel network. Sections near the cliff face were busy with graffiti, out near where the toilets used to be (no surprise there then), whilst the areas that used to be the medical bay and stores were completely free of inscriptions. Many of the inscriptions were by the men who built the tunnels, including sappers and pioneers from several different units (all recorded), as well as the gunners from units of the Royal Artillery who manned the big guns themselves. We had names, serial numbers, unit designations – all in all enough to actually track down they individuals via their service records. Sapper Hedge– we are coming for you.


The graffiti inscriptions from the deep shelter add a whole new dimension to the history of the Fan Bay Battery. Now, alongside the military and engineering history of this fascinating place buried deep in the chalk, it’s possible to catch a rare glimpse of the men who lived and worked down there during one of the most significant periods of recent history. When the shelter is finally open to the public, which the NT plan to do very shortly, I hope that visitors will find it all as fascinating as I did – and pause a moment to consider what those scratches beneath the surface really mean.
You really must go and visit...