Just over a week ago I had the great pleasure to take part
in filming at Norwich cathedral for a piece in the BBC property programme ‘Escape
to the Country’. Having not really seen the programme I was a little unsure
when they first contacted me about why they would want to look at medieval
graffiti as part of a property show. Was someone interested in buying the
cathedral? Surely not. However, the producer explained that they had a couple
who wanted to move to Norfolk (who wouldn’t?) and each episode normally
contained a five minute piece with the presenter showcasing something unusual
about the chosen area. They’d heard
about the cathedral graffiti and thought it sound just the sort of unusual
thing they’d like to feature. Well, unusual is what I do – and sometimes the
downright weird.
We met at the cathedral early on a brilliantly sunny Friday
morning and had to make a quick start as the weather was set to deteriorate
pretty quickly. The presenter for this particular episode was Jules Hudson, and
I soon understood why they had chosen to come to the cathedral. Jules, it
transpired, trained as an archaeologist at Durham and was pretty experienced at
all types of survey work. Indeed, some of his earliest TV pieces had been with
the early episodes of Time Team, several of which were shot in Norfolk. It was,
therefore, a real change and a great pleasure to spend four hours showing Jules
the graffiti treasures of Norwich cathedral. As well as doing the usual walking
up and down talking to camera pieces (why do they always do this?) we had a chance
to discuss some of the weirder aspects of the graffiti – and it was great to be
able to bounce ideas off another archaeologist, but one who came very fresh to
the experience.
The graffiti of Norwich cathedral really is quite superb. We
began the cathedral survey a little over a year ago now and I would say we are
now over halfway through. It may sound as though we have been dragging our feet
a little on this one, compared to our normal one day surveys of churches, but
that simply isn’t the case. The cathedral contains many thousands of
inscriptions. Exactly how many we simply aren’t sure of yet, but conservative
estimates place it at between 2500 and 5000 separate inscriptions. The majority
of these tend to date from the 17th through to the 19th
century, but a significant proportion are clearly medieval in date. Just about every type of graffiti is
represented, with everything from medieval ships and prayers to animals and
faces. However, the cathedral graffiti has also introduced us to an entirely
new type of graffiti – the medieval curse inscription.
A high proportion of the inscriptions we come across are
what is known as ‘apotropaic’ in nature. In essence these are ritual protection
marks designed to ward off evil. At their simplest level they offer protection
from the ‘evil eye’, whilst more complex types may have had a specific function
– such as offering protection from demons. When I first began surveying for
early graffiti I must admit to have been very wary of the whole concept of
apotropaic markings. Archaeology is about ascertaining facts from the remains
of material culture, and the whole area of apotropaic markings was just a
little too close to things such as ‘folklore’ and ‘magic’ for my down to earth
tastes. However, having surveyed over 250 churches I now find myself not only
believing that such marks were meant to function in such a way – but actually
looking at the thought processes and beliefs that lay behind them.
The main cathedral inscription took the form of the name ‘Keynfford’
(a Norwich family who appear in the Paston letters) linked to what appears to
be an astrological symbol associated with the sun. However, the actual name had
been inverted. Although such inscriptions would be instantly recognisable to
anyone who has studied Roman or Anglo-Saxon religion as a ‘curse’, these were
the first examples that we had identified in a direct late medieval setting. Having
said that, there are a number of post-medieval examples that have been
recorded, so perhaps we were simply seeing something that has continued for a
very long time indeed.
What we discovered in Norwich cathedral appeared to function
in pretty much the same way as the standard apotropaic markings – but reversed.
Instead of trying to drive evil away these inscriptions appeared to have been
an attempt to actually draw evil directly towards the individual named in the
curse. Whoever inscribed this curse was clearly well used to writing, and had
at least a basic understanding of astrology. The location of the Keynfford
inscription was also pretty intriguing as it was located in an area of the
cathedral to which public access would be very limited at the time of its
creation. It all rather suggests that the Keynfford curse may well have been
created by a member of the medieval religious community. Exactly what the Keynfford
family did to annoy them we shall never know – but the curse has long outlived
them.
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